Supper Clubs Are An Unmissable Wisconsin Tradition

Moody and atmospheric, the dark wood interiors are dressed to the nines, even if you don't have to be. A place where you could imagine Frank Sinatra poring over a Rusty Nail while Thelonious Monk sets the scene with a soulful melody. A place with the aesthetic of Digger's Sting Restaurant up in La Crosse, Wisconsin. When I think of supper clubs, that's my vibe. But Wisconsin supper clubs aren't just any one thing. They are an amalgamation of good service, good food, and, most of all, a good time.

"This is a topic of much debate in Wisconsin because we love our supper clubs," said writer and photographer Mary Bergin when asked what makes a restaurant a supper club. "In a perfect world, a supper club is independently owned, serving only dinner/supper, in a rural or otherwise picturesque setting. Reservations aren’t taken, and you gladly wait at the bar with a brandy old fashioned or two. It may take an hour or longer before being seated, but you don’t mind because this is your destination for the evening, not a hop between work and the theater.

"On the menu are long-loved favorites, served in hearty portions: fish fry on Fridays, prime rib on Saturdays, fat chops and steaks whenever the business is open," she continued. "Diners begin with a relish tray of nibbles - maybe raw veggies and dip, liver pate or a cheese dip with crackers - and end with a Grasshopper, Brandy Alexander or other ice cream drink instead of dessert." Bergin's mouthwatering description of a typical supper club meal is so on-point because she is an expert in the topic of supper clubs, having written her fair share about them, including her book Wisconsin Supper Club Cookbook: Iconic Fare and Nostalgia from Landmark Eateries.

The Pull of Supper Clubs in Wisconsin

Fellow supper club expert Ron Faiola holds a similar belief about the beloved restaurant staple. There is no easy answer to it, he explained. "To me, they're family run and the family often lives on the premises - you're dining in their home," Faiola said. "Often your food orders are taken at the bar, and meals include the sides, it's not a la carte. They're open seasonally, with longer summer hours and shorter winter hours. Sometimes they close for a month or two, or when they go deer hunting, they put a sign on the door saying, 'See you next week.'" In addition to several books on supper clubs, Faiola has also produced two documentaries on the topic: Supper Clubs 101 and Wisconsin Supper Clubs: An Old Fashioned Experience. He also curates the Wisconsin Supper Clubs website, where you can find all the state's official supper clubs. From the scenic and light-filled Ishnala Supper Club to the retro and classic Richards of Dunbar Supper Club and Motel. Each has a unique style. Spoiler alert–there are over 250!

The Influence of Supper Club Culture

Even other restaurants that aren't technically supper clubs can't escape the allure of this very Midwestern tradition, which Wisconsin (with more than any other state) has perfected. Shaina Robbins Papach, creative director and co-owner of Harvey House in Madison, noted that her restaurant was greatly inspired by supper clubs and the culture surrounding them. She said that Harvey House was created by combining elements of a supper club with Chef and co-owner Joe Papach's culinary training. In its own unique way, Harvey House is a homage to old-school Wisconsin, as it is situated inside a historic train baggage building from the turn of the 20th century. Yet, when Robbins Papach tells people from other areas about the supper club inspiration, she finds herself having to explain what this beloved tradition is, which is hard.

Supper Clubs Still Provide Variety to Diners

"It's harder to describe than you would think, actually, because they're all very different," Robbins Papach explained. "They all have different elements, but we were finding that at most every supper club that we had been going to, there was this celebration of dining. We loved that. It felt like people were celebrating, even if it was just a Monday night dinner." For Robbins Papach, it is the hospitality that shines in a supper club setting. She said that the service in a supper club comes from "a place of generosity."

She is right, without a doubt. Something that sets these restaurants apart is the generosity of it all. From the courses of plentiful food to the lavish after-dinner drinks or dessert, indulgence in both hospitality and generosity is commonplace in supper clubs. They wholeheartedly embrace the notion of Midwestern hospitality.

Bergin noted that the operation of a supper club, particularly a Wisconsin supper club, is what sets it apart. "Most important is the vibe," she said. "A good supper club operator helps everyone feel at home and feel welcomed...You’re not in a hurry to leave - this is your destination for the evening." It isn't uncommon to sit for dinner in a supper club for hours. You aren't meant to dash out. This is where the stereotype of the all-too-long Midwestern goodbye is more than welcome. To be fair, this dining experience is usually like stepping back in time. And time travel takes a while.

The Art Form of the Supper Club

Time travel is necessary because, in many ways, the supper club is a bit of a dwindling art form. Although Wisconsin still has a lot of them, their heyday is long gone. Faiola noted that those golden days were back in the 1950s and 60s. But back then, they were everywhere from coast to coast, he explained. "These were adult playgrounds where martinis and old fashioneds were served along with live entertainment and dancing," he said. "The food was American cuisine, which meant steaks, chops, and seafood. Simple comfort food compared to the fancy sauces found in French cooking."

Supper Clubs Standing the Test of Time

While there isn't as big a market anymore for supper clubs, that doesn't mean diners aren't still hungry for them. Sipping on an iconic Wisconsin drink, the brandy old-fashioned, as you await the filling comfort of a well-crafted steak. Your dining companions are slathering housemade butter onto an oven-fresh slice of bread. You all joke about something mundane that happened at work recently. This meal is easy, slipping into core memory moments instead of fleeting ones. You're not just eating at a restaurant; you're connecting as people. You are engaging in a dining experience.

In the years since the COVID-19 pandemic, that's something Robbins Papach has seen in her supper club-inspired restaurant. "We have found that over the past couple of years, people are wanting that connection more and more, and that comfort in the classics," she said. "I think [it] creates an immediate sense of calm in a way. People [can simply] sit and feel as though they're at home. [The other night, a woman] came in for the first time, and she sent me a note afterwards that said, "Isn't it weird that I can come to a place for the first time and feel like I'm at home?"

There is no more perfect description of a supper club than that. A comfort food restaurant that captures the feeling of being home. And for me, a born and raised Wisconsinite, that's what these restaurants are. They are a little taste of home.

Want to have your own supper club experience? Try planning your own trip using Only In Your State’s itinerary planner.