New York’s Prettiest Vineyard Is A Community Cultural Hub

The first thing that took my breath away when I visited the Highlands Vineyard in Kesseville, New York, was the incredible views. The second thing that took my breath away was the wine - and the generous pours! And the third thing that took my breath away is that I was the only out-of-towner there.

A lot of vineyards promise beautiful views and, to be fair, just about all deliver. Maybe it’s the wine talking, but it’s hard not to love rolling green hills dotted with grapevines. Highlands Vineyard takes things to an entirely different level, and perhaps that’s because it’s actually on another level. This quiet spot, situated about halfway between Lake Placid and Plattsburgh, New York, offers incredible, unspoiled views of Lake Champlain. From where it sits on the crest of a hill, you can only see water. The lakeshore houses and railroad track are completely obscured from view as you sink into their Adirondack chairs.

Once I sat in that chair and soaked up that view, I wasn’t moving, so it was a good thing that I had a generous wine flight by my side. And when I say generous, I mean generous. We’re talking about six samples, each at two ounces. (Never fear, my husband was driving.) The winery staff were invaluable in assisting me as I made my selection from the five whites, three rosés, and four red wines available that day, all sensibly organized on the blackboard by colour and sweetness level. Things were further well-organized with labels on each of the samples – especially helpful if, by the time you reach number five or six, things are starting to get a little less focused.

I was a New York wine enthusiast long before my visit, but apparently, this fantastic grape region isn’t on everyone’s radar. I was recently talking with a colleague from Tennessee about the wine scene in Ontario, Canada. She was shocked that there was a wine scene, so I patiently explained that southern Ontario has a similar climate to upstate New York, which was a good thing. Just look at the excellent wines New York produces! Then it was my turn to be shocked when she said, “Nobody in the United States drinks New York wine.”

While I’ll happily defer to her judgment when it comes to certain spirits (Jack Daniels is just down the road…), I’m convinced she couldn’t be more wrong about wine. New York is home to fantastic wine, and Highlands proves that point with every sip. 100% of their grapes are estate-grown (which means they are hands-on with the quality), and their wines are cold-hardy. Cold-hardy grapes are varieties that possess the superpower of resisting intense winters. As such, you won’t find much in the way of Sémillon or Syrah; instead, grapes like Marquette, Corot Noir, and Petite Pearl dominate. The flavours are fresh and innovative, and the terroir is second to none. My personal favourite among all the samples I tried was “Arctic Fox”, a semi-sweet blend of Adamiina and St. Pepin grapes.

As I sat and enjoyed my wine (and then enjoyed it some more), it was clear that everyone else was enjoying the view as much as I was. But there was something different about my neighbours, and I soon figured out what it was. I think I was the only non-local there! Using my expert eavesdropping skills (an essential part of a travel writing career), I realized that no one around me was talking about their beverages. It wasn’t that they weren’t as into the wine as I was (though that might have been a part of it). There was just juicier local news to dive into. Suddenly, I was privy to everything from family wedding gossip to fundraising plans. Some people were so engrossed in their conversation that they didn’t want to leave, so they ordered pizza from a nearby restaurant!

I must admit, however, there was one visitor who wasn’t enjoying themselves. It was my dog, Clover! I double-checked, and this dog-friendly winery welcomes pups to sit alongside their owners outside. Alas, Clover was dismayed that I wouldn’t permit her to chase birds, bark at patrons, or hide from stray leaves (very scary, apparently). Mindful of being respectful guests, I sent my naughty girl off for a walk with my spouse while I enjoyed the area. Visitors with better-behaved pets will love this space!

Communities that are sandwiched between two tourism hotspots, such as Highlands Vineyard, which is situated between Lake Placid and Plattsburgh, often face a dilemma. How, exactly, are they going to manage to draw visitors to them? Do they even try to coax the tourists who are so close yet so far at the same time? I can’t help but feel that Highlands Vineyard decided to reject that game in favor of a different approach. It was clear to me that the Highlands Vineyard was an unofficial community hub, and in certain seasons, that’s even more true. The vineyard is a gathering place for musicians and other artists. Concerts take place, along with food collabs. The vibe is really intimate. It feels like the staff isn’t just eager to serve visitors like me. They’re proud to be a place for locals.

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