Even Meat Eaters Can’t Help but Fall in Love With the Menu at This Plant-Based Restaurant in Southern California

I confess up front: I'm not a vegetarian or a vegan. While that will invariably undercut some of my plant-based bona fides, it also gives me a unique insight into the sort of menus that wield real carnivore conversion potential.

In today's world — where culinary shows and influencers celebrate the bold flavors of plant-based cuisine — no adult should still be afraid of broccoli. And yet, there remains a contingent of diners who are steadfastly convinced that a satisfying meal must — by definition — include a form of meat. To these cynics, I have one recommendation: visit West Hollywood's Pura Vita.

This mainstay of vegan Italian cuisine has become an oasis for folks seeking tried-and-true, big-comfort flavors without sacrificing their ethics, diets, or standards. And boy, oh boy, does Pura Vita deliver.

For fans of Italian-American fare, the prospect of "veganizing" classic dishes like bolognese, lasagna, or fettuccine alfredo may seem vaguely heretical. After all, Hamlet's enduring question, "To be, or not to be," has a lot in common with "What is a meatball without the meat?" if you blur your eyes just right. Since its 2018 debut, Pura Vita has been steadily quieting these doubts.

The restaurant's singular vision reflects the conviction of its founder, New York chef Tara Punzone. Long before she began channeling her passion into cooking, Chef Punzone held strong opinions about food. She made the decision to adopt a vegan lifestyle as a child — no easy feat when the family's culinary sensibility revolved around hearty, Italian-American dishes.

If you've picked up on the undeniable rebelliousness of founding a vegan Italian restaurant, you're on to something. In fact, Pura Vita was the first totally plant-based Italian restaurant and wine bar in the country — clear evidence that uncoupling the cuisine of its emblematic cheeses, sauces, and meats was no easy task. But Chef Punzone honed her prodigious cooking techniques by proving her family's heirloom recipes could go plant-based without compromise. If you've ever tried impressing an Italian grandmother with your kitchen prowess, you know that winning this approval can't have been an easy feat.

I think Pura Vita pulled off the high-wire act, but you don't need to take my word for it. In its seven years, the eatery has won over half a dozen awards, many earned in the last two years alone. Just recently, they expanded their offerings, opening a pizzeria next door.

Of all Pura Vita's creations, I was most skeptical about how they'd conquer pizza. What about cheese pulls? What about pepperoni? As a rule, I'm wary of vegan foods that try to mimic their non-vegan counterparts. Why not celebrate tofu for tofu instead of trying to convince me of "tofurkey"? Once again, I shouldn't have worried. Pura Vita's cashew cheeses defy expectations, capturing the melt-and-pull magic of the dairy-based stuff I grew up eating. Their pizzas are crowdpleasers, delivering on comfort but holding the after-dinner sluggishness.

From the pizzas to the cashew ricotta and broccolini, this West Hollywood gem offers plenty to love — enough to woo even the most intransigent carnivore. If you're looking to try something new or seeking a new vegan eatery for your Southern California roster, this spot is worth a road trip.