This Remote Resort in Minnesota Is the Epitome of Slow Travel

I love a good road trip: hitting a city or a park each day, a new hotel room every night, stopping for photo ops with roadside attractions along the way. I also admit they can be exhausting, and there's something to be said about unpacking once, staying put, and really getting to know a place. Historically, this is what vacations were, and for many of us in Minnesota, a week or two Up North is still a common practice. These days, folks refer to this as "slow travel"—staying longer in on place and immersing yourself. If you ask me, few places are as suited to slow travel as the Northwoods of Minnesota. In fact, it's pretty much the whole point of places like the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. Fortunately, you can still enjoy the slow pace of the BWCA even if you don't win the permit lottery—and you can do so with a little more in the way of creature comforts. All you need to do is book a stay at Clearwater Historic Lodge.

The lodge is, aptly, located on the shores of Clearwater Lake, about 30 miles due north of Grand Marais. The resort opened in 1915 as Clearwater Lake Lodge. The main building, completed in 1926, is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is largely considered the first resort on the Gunflint Trail. That said, it's not exactly on the Gunflint Trail. You need to turn off of the Gunflint and head north along a narrow gravel road for about 4 miles to get to the resort. Clearwater Lodge is actually closer to the Canadian border (around 2 miles) than it is to the Gunflint Trail. Once you get there, though, you can almost feel time slow down and all the stresses of the outside world slipping away: no cell service, no televisions, and no light pollution. (WiFi is available in the main lodge if you really want it, but I think Clearwater is perfect for a device detox.)

The lodge property sits at the western end of 1,344-acre Clearwater Lake. Most of the lake's 18.5 miles of shoreline, including the towering, 350-foot Palisades, lie within the Boundary Waters. Rent a canoe or kayak to explore the lake's magnificent shoreline or to just float among the ducks and loons that summer here. The Boundary Waters entry point for Clearwater Lake is less than a mile from the lodge if you want to head into the BWCA for the day. A full-service outfitter is available on-property if you want to explore options for a longer trip, as well.

The resort consists of 12 rental cabins and five lodge rooms in the main building. There are also a handful of bunkhouses for parties heading into or coming off of BWCA excursions. Daily breakfast, a bakery, and a store are all offered in the lodge. You'll need to plan for lunches and dinners, whether you whip them up yourself or head to another nearby resort like Hungry Jack, Trail Center, White Pine, or Poplar Haus, which are all located on neighboring lakes.

The lodge's massive wraparound porch is perfect for enjoying a book or a cup of coffee, stargazing, or simply sitting and enjoying the day. A few trails, including the rugged Border Route section of the North Country National Scenic Trail, lace the property. If you head out for a walk, you're unlikely to encounter many other hikers—but you may run into some occasional traffic on the trail.

Clearwater Lodge is seasonal, typically May through October, although one or two cabins are usually available for winter rental. The cabins at Clearwater Lodge are typically reserved in weeklong blocks, but you can occasionally find an irregular stay, and either way, I recommend reserving well ahead of time. The lodge rooms are better suited for those who want a shorter stay. Visit Clearwater Historic Lodge on the web for more information or to book your stay. It's one of my favorite places to slow down, spend some time, and immerse myself in the beautiful Northwoods of Minnesota.