At more than one million acres, the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (officially the "BWCAW," but often referred to as the "BWCA") is the fifth largest designated wilderness area in the Lower 48 states. It stretches across northern Minnesota for 150 miles, along the Canadian border, from Voyageurs National Park eastward to the Lake Superior highlands. Several Canadian parks extend the wilderness northward, creating a vast expanse of shimmering lakes, rushing rivers, and deep Northwoods ripe for adventuring. Incredibly, the Boundary Waters in Minnesota is accessible only on foot or, more often, given its 1,175 lakes, by paddling.
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As a native Midwesterner from corn country, I absolutely love that we have the BWCA in Minnesota. When I was a kid, I believed that places like the BWCA were always "someplace else." So it seemed a little miracle when I learned that such a vast wilderness exists right here in my home state. I've been escaping to this amazing place ever since, and if you're a lover of wild places, you should, too.
What Makes The Boundary Waters Special?
What I find special is the silence and profound stillness of the Boundary Waters – not that nothing happens there, but rather, stillness relative to the way time moves outside the wilderness. There's a serenity in knowing that some places in the Boundary Waters have not changed appreciably in centuries or even millennia: that a thousand years ago, a moose may have walked out onto the same rock – shaded by old-growth pines – on the same lake where I saw one standing on today. To be a part of such a world, even briefly, is a salve for the noise and frequent discord of modern, 21st-century life.
For Kerry Lane, a brilliant photographer and videographer who's also the outfitting manager at Clearwater Historic Lodge and Outfitters, the BWCA is special because "it's not like any other place in Minnesota." Lane is a native of Superior, Wisconsin, who lived in Florida for 20 years before making his way to the Northwoods. He's been coming to the Boundary Waters for over a decade and now lives on its edge year-round. Lane told me that he's constantly surprised that so "many people don't realize it's here." Lane's passion for the Boundary Waters comes through in the videos he shares on his YouTube channel.
In that way, I guess, the Boundary Waters resembles the moose who dwell here: surprisingly easy to miss despite its massive size.
For Minnesota residents and current Subaru Leave No Trace ("LNT") Traveling Team Jeanelle Soland and Rob Pelton, what's special about the Boundary Waters is that it's "one of the few truly wild places that we are able to recreate." Soland is a Minnesota native and avid hiker. Pelton moved to the state from Florida when he was in high school and first experienced the Boundary Waters in his 20s. Since that time, he's visited the BWCA in just about every season and has shared several Boundary Waters adventures on his YouTube channel.
Regardless of the reason, the Boundary Waters is – without a doubt – special, and it certainly deserves to be regarded as such, as well as respected and protected for future generations to enjoy.
How To Get To The Boundary Waters
Most people drive to a designated Boundary Waters entry point, typically via the main gateway communities of Ely, Tofte, and Grand Marais. Visitors from other states may wish to fly into either Duluth (DTH), which is the closest U.S. airport of consequence, or Minneapolis/St. Paul (MSP) and rent a car.
The gateway community you travel to will be determined by your entry point, which is most often decided by availability and manner of entry rather than choice (see below for more details on the permitting process). Once in the BWCA, you'll definitely need a detailed map and compass to navigate, as well as a standalone GPS or a GPS app, like AllTrails Plus, with offline capabilities to supplement.
Where To Stay In Or Near The Boundary Waters
When you travel to the Boundary Waters, where you stay will depend on your plans. For overnight trips, you'll stay at your designated campsite(s) during your permit period.
You may wish to stay in a Boundary Waters-adjacent lodge or bunkhouse, like Clearwater Lodge, before or after your BWCA adventure.
Day users will probably want to set up basecamp somewhere close to the BWCA. Tuscarora Lodge, on Round Lake in the eastern BWCA, offers Boundary Waters adjacent cabins that make perfect retreats after a day of hiking or paddling.
Likewise, Sag Lodge offers several types of accommodation at the end of the Gunflint Trail with access to Saganaga Lake.
On the other hand, those recreating in the western BWCA - i.e., the Ely side - may appreciate something like this lakefront home in Crane Lake.
36 Hours In The Boundary Waters: A Quintessential 2-Day Itinerary
For Minnesota nature lovers, a paddling trip into the Boundary Waters is a frequent goal, whether as an annual event, a rite of passage, or, in many cases, the trip of a lifetime. If you're new to the BWCA or have spent most of your time in the eastern part of the Boundary waters, here's a little inspiration for a short paddling trip in the western BWCA.
When judged by BWCA standards, this itinerary is definitely not off the beaten path, but you won't encounter a ton of traffic along it, either – at least once you leave the entry point. I'm a fan of this particular itinerary because it can be a "choose your own adventure," and you can make it as long or as short as you like, depending on the amount of time you have and your luck in the permit lottery.
This itinerary suggestion offers a quintessential Boundary Waters experience in a relatively short amount of time. In the words of Rob Pelton, it offers just enough to "test our mettle, skills, and gain a sense of adventure in a modern world." And if it leaves you wanting more, you can always plan a longer adventure the next time.
Your itinerary starts at BWCA entry point 16, about 20 miles north and a little west of Ely. It's off the Ely-Buyck Road/Echo Trail, where it crosses the Moose River.
You'll put in at the Moose River and follow it northward to Nina Moose Lake.
On this route, you'll get your first taste of a BWCA portage pretty early on, as you'll encounter a couple along the Moose River, but you won't have to make many more.
Nina Moose Lake is a great spot to plan to camp on your first night if you can get the permit.
Then you can relax to the rhythms of the Boundary Waters and enjoy the silence - broken only by calling loons and other sounds of nature.
Sunsets in the BWCA can be incredible.
When night settles over the wilderness, you'll enjoy some of the darkest skies you'll find in the Lower 48.
Enjoy the unpolluted firmament in this designated Dark Sky Sanctuary. The Boundary Waters has also been designated a Wilderness Quiet Park, so you'll hear few sounds other than those created by nature or your paddle.
You may even be treated to a show of the aurora borealis. Northern Minnesota is one of the best places to see them in the United States, and the BWCA is the best spot in Minnesota.And you never know what surprises lie around the next point as you paddle through the morning mist.
Need To Know Information About The Boundary Waters
All overnight excursions into the Boundary Waters require permits, which you can obtain through Recreation.gov. Between May and October, the permits are available on a quota system based on your planned activity, e.g., paddling versus hiking, your entry point, and your route. You may apply for a permit, but you are not guaranteed to get one. During the rest of the year, permits are required, but the quota is relaxed. Day users must self-issue entry permits at entry point kiosks. While I've offered an overview of a route, you'll want to dig in with more detail, including the specific campsites you're interested in and how long your trip will be, before you apply for a permit – or visit any Superior National Forest ranger station for assistance. The Forest Service also offers an excellent planning guide to help you plan your BWCA trip.
One excellent option for anyone wishing to visit the BWCA – but especially beginners – is to work with a local outfitter who can obtain permits, supply key pieces of gear, and help you plan your trip. Another option to consider is a guided day trip. Such shorter excursions offer a taste of the BWCA with considerably less planning and commitment.
And don't forget that a paddle trip is not the only option for exploring the Boundary Waters. There are many excellent hiking trails that traverse the BWCA's wonders.
Longer trails suited for multi-day backpacking trips include the Border Route and Kekakabic Trails. Like overnight paddle trips, these also require entry permits. However, hiking permits tend to be a little easier to obtain.
Finally, there are a few important things to keep in mind. First, wilderness areas like the Boundary Waters in Minnesota are subject to special rules with which you should be familiar before you head into the BWCA.Further, anyone entering the Boundary Waters should always be prepared to practice LNT principles. Finally, the BWCA is a true wilderness and you need to be prepared before you go. Soland and Pelton, the Subaru Leave No Trace Traveling Team, caution that "it's important for people to know it's a primitive way of life. They will be disconnected from modern conveniences. No electricity, no cell signal, no running water, no flushing toilets, and no place to throw your trash out." It's for these reasons that "people visiting the BWCA should be self-reliant. They will need the knowledge and skills to have a successful and safe experience. Being prepared will minimize impacts, maximize safety and make for a phenomenal experience."
I hope this piece has helped to whet your appetite for planning a trip to the Boundary Waters in Minnesota and practicing Leave No Trace principles when recreating in the wild. Are you ready to start planning your BWCA adventure? Let us know in the comments! Will this be your first or are you a veteran? If the latter, please share any tips or advice you may have for others in the comments.
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