I Rode a Vintage Train Into California’s Redwoods to a Magical Hidden Bar

Some destinations sit on your travel bucket list for literal years, waiting for everything to line up just right to visit finally. For me, riding the historic Skunk Train through the redwoods to Glen Blair Bar was one of those. Ever since the outdoor, accessible-by-train-only bar opened in late 2022, I’d been determined to experience it for myself — but my previous trips to Northern California never aligned with the schedule. So when my husband and I planned a road trip from San Francisco up the coast to the Redwoods last spring, I built our itinerary around making it happen at last.

We’d ridden scenic trains before — the Pikes Peak Cog Railway, Colorado’s Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge — but never one where the destination was the main event. In this case, that meant a forest-clearing bar lit by string lights, with fire pits, live music, yard games, local beer and wine, and train cars full of friendly pups. We booked tickets weeks in advance, planned our route to reach Fort Bragg just in time for departure, building up the kind of anticipation usually reserved for big-ticket attractions. We were not disappointed.

A Sunset Ride Straight Into the Trees

The Skunk Train has been running since 1885, originally carrying massive redwood logs. Today, it offers several excursions, from daytime family rides to wildly popular railbikes, but the Glen Blair Bar trips are entirely different. Friday and Saturday nights only, year-round, the vintage steam train departs the Fort Bragg depot and takes passengers on a 25-minute ride through the Pudding Creek Estuary, into the heart of the redwoods.

We boarded just before 6:30 p.m., joining a mix of locals, visitors, and several very excited dogs. The weather was classic Northern California late spring: dense fog, but pleasant, with only a mild nip in the air. Even in summer, it sometimes gets surprisingly chilly up here when the sun sets, so layer up. 

The ride gave us just enough time to grab a drink — we opted to split a large bottle of local cider — and take in the scenery between cars. As the train slowed into the clearing, we could see the glow of the lights and hear the live music. Artists vary by night, but on this one, the solo singer-guitarist was in the middle of a Fleetwood Mac cover (“The Chain”) that perfectly complemented the low-key setting. A few minutes later, we stepped off the train and walked along a boardwalk into what felt like a woodland block party.

What to Expect at the Glen Blair Bar

See, Glen Blair Bar isn’t a building. It’s a gathering place, all outdoors: picnic tables and Adirondack chairs, fire pits and standalone heaters, cornhole areas, a small stage for live music, and of course, the bar, which sits under cover. Order beer, wine, or cocktails, plus pre-made charcuterie plates, pastries, and light bites. Nothing fancy, but it suits the setting perfectly. Everyone seemed to find their “spot” within minutes; some huddled around fire pits, others settled into chairs close to the music, and a few regulars covered picnic tables with blankets, games, and snacks like they’d done it a dozen times before.

We grabbed glasses of wine and grabbed seats in front of the stage, right next to a heater. Nearby, a pair of dachshunds did their best to antagonize a fully unbothered golden retriever asleep under a table. After maybe 10 minutes, my husband had one of the dachshunds in his lap, and we said yes to a friendly couples’ cornhole match. We won, and I’m certain my husband will be talking about his winning throw for the rest of his life.

The Vibe of Glen Blair Bar

The vibe here strikes a rare balance: whimsical but not kitschy, casual but not sloppy, family-friendly but somehow also sophisticated, without feeling the least bit chaotic. The bar is fully cashless, the heaters are plentiful, and the return trains are come-and-go — stay for one hour or four, as long as you catch the final train back around 10:30 p.m. As the evening stretched on and we continued to make friends (humans and doggos alike), it felt like we were in on a juicy secret. Because the Glen Blair Bar run is one of the Skunk Train’s most popular, tickets often sell out. Although you can chance it and try to grab seats on the day, it’s smart to book in advance. Also, remember, dogs need their own paid ticket.

Fort Bragg & The Surrounding Area

Fort Bragg is fairly remote, so you’ll likely want to turn this into a full weekend instead of a quick evening trip. Luckily, the Mendocino Coast and nearby redwood forests make it incredibly easy to do so. Plus, since the bar train only runs on weekend nights, you have a built-in day or two of extra exploring. In Fort Bragg alone, you can search for treasures (and seals) at famous Glass Beach and visit several surprisingly robust museums, including the Noyo Center for Marine Science. For breakfast, we loved Egghead’s, a teeny-tiny, Wizard-of-Oz-themed diner. Head to Noyo River Grill for fresh seafood and harbor views, especially at dinner when the boats start coming in. And with Mendocino just 15 minutes south, you can easily spend an afternoon wandering its coastal trails, browsing indie shops, sipping wine in converted Victorian homes, or just standing on the headlands watching waves slam the cliffs. We camped at MacKerricher State Park, a five-minute drive from the depot, but if you prefer a more traditional stay, book a room at The Beachcomber Motel. 

After two years of waiting, the Skunk Train and Glen Blair Bar were everything I hoped for, and exactly the kind of unforgettable, slightly strange experience that keeps me traveling.

Plan your own trip to Fort Bragg with Only In Your State’s AI-powered itinerary planner.