My Favorite Park in Alaska Is a Little-Known Paradise for Birding
Alaska may be known for its big game and large-scale wonders, but the tiny Izembek National Wildlife Refuge is a scenic spot that tops the charts when it comes to birdwatching.
Recently, I've discovered — for better or worse — that birdwatching is one of those hobbies that's inevitable at some point in your life. It starts small with a few bird feeders here and there, but quickly takes over until you're spouting red-breasted nuthatch facts to strangers without even realizing it (ask me how I know).
When I first started my photography journey, I never imagined that I would find so much joy in capturing the smallest and most diverse classification in the animal kingdom, but nevertheless, off I go, scouting for warblers and waterfowl in every park I visit! If you're looking to immerse yourself in a place where the wildlife outnumbers humans by the thousands, there's no better place than the Last Frontier. And if birds in particular are your jam, then the far southwest corner of the state is hiding the perfect spot to add to your ornithological bucket list.
At the southern tip of the Alaska peninsula sits one of the most spectacular places you’ve probably never heard of: the Izembek National Wildlife Refuge. At over 600 miles from Anchorage in the volcanic Aleutians, this little-known Alaska park is one of the most remote spots in the United States, and for true bird aficionados, it's basically paradise. But even if you're not into birdwatching (yet), a visit here might just convert you.
Izembek is a petite park, even by mainland standards, spanning just 3,000 square miles. But within this small slice of the state is a stunning blend of tundra, lagoons, and wetland habitats, every corner boasting equally spectacular scenery. It's a seriously gorgeous slice of Alaska. But to understand what makes this spot so special, you first need to remember that Izembek is isolated — really isolated — and that's what makes it such a treasure.
With the Gulf of Alaska on one side and the Bering Sea on the other, and nothing but islands in between, Izembek National Wildlife Refuge sits in a natural thoroughfare for birds traveling from all over the world. Surrounding the refuge are also many of the jaw-dropping, impassable landscapes that Alaska has already come to be known for, all packed into one stunning panorama: from here, active volcanoes, rolling tundra, windswept beaches, and distant peaks all glitter against the horizon. It's particularly stunning in the warmer months, but as with all things Alaska, there are no bad angles or seasons in terms of beauty. Worlds away from fishing ports and tourist hubs, this is where land and sea blur and the lack of human presence is just one reason why so many species of land and seabirds return here year after year.
The lifeblood of the refuge is Izembek Lagoon, a marshy pocket of shallow water that's home to the largest eelgrass bed on the planet. If you're not familiar with eelgrass (you might have heard it called land seaweed), just know that it's a wildly nutritious bird superfood. For this reason, Izembek is not just an important migration stopover but a tasty mid-flight snack spot for many birds heading to and from their chilly Arctic breeding grounds.
The overall numbers are staggering, but it's difficult to comprehend until you've seen the sun literally blotted out by birds. Around 150 documented bird species either nest here or pass through on their way to some far-flung corner of the globe; groups like Pacific black brant, emperor geese, and Steller’s eiders stop here literally by the hundreds on any given day. In fact, more than 90 percent of the world's population of Pacific black brant passes through Izembek each year.
With so much isolation, hiking here is a wild and unique experience, with formal trails and signage at a minimum. Most of the terrain is tundra or marshland, which makes for easy walking, although you'll want to be prepared for soggy boots. For wilderness novices, the safest option is to take a guided tour with a local outfitter who can provide expertise and water transportation to explore the lagoon up close. You'll be rewarded with unobstructed views of the birds feeding and resting in their natural habitat. Plus, floating among the flocks is one of the coolest wilderness experiences you could hope for.
Autumn is peak season for migratory bird sightings in Izembek, with the air practically vibrating from all the wings in motion. If you're lucky, you'll also spot resident bald eagles soaring overhead, along with a variety of shorebirds, songbirds, and raptors. Make sure you bring your best gear or the biggest zoom lens you own! You'll have luck just about anywhere, but the Grant Point Wildlife Overlook is easily accessible and covered, and offers endless views from which to spot your bucket list bird of choice.
Although Izembek is famous for its birdlife, adventurous avian fans aren't the only ones who will find local wildlife to admire. The refuge also serves up some impressive mammal sightings, like caribou, otters, and even the occasional wolf. And if you're a marine life fan, Izembek's waters are abundant with seals, sea lions, and whales. You can easily spot them off the coast or while out on a boat tour. Altogether, over 200 different species can be spotted at various times and seasons throughout the refuge, from the brown bears feasting on fresh salmon to the adorable ptarmigan.
The refuge was established in 1960, but in 1986, Izembek was officially designated as a Wetland of International Importance, solidifying its status as one of the most important ecosystems on the planet. Of course, all that untamed beauty takes some effort to reach, and getting to Izembek requires more logistics than your average spontaneous road trip. The area is a stop on the Alaska Marine Highway System on the way to the outer Aleutian Islands, hundreds of miles from the mainland. The nearest town, Cold Bay, is tiny, with a population hovering around 100 people (give or take a moose). Once you disembark here, you'll have to rent a vehicle and take the 40-mile gravel road from town that leads straight to the refuge, but before you do, make sure to stop at the small Wildlife Refuge Headquarters to get the lay of the land. However, there are a few bus tour options as well.
While visiting Izembek is quite the undertaking, there’s something pretty special about journeying to a place that feels untouched by human activity. There's a reason why, of all the parks in Alaska, this refuge tops my list year after year!
Whether for photography or a one-of-a-kind immersion in the wilds of Alaska, if you’re thinking about visiting this fantastic corner of the state, it’s important to come prepared (bear spray is a given). With elevations ranging from sea level to over 9,000 feet, the weather here can be unpredictable, so pack layers and waterproof gear and come prepared for limited services and accommodations in Cold Bay. But perhaps most importantly, bring binoculars and a bird guidebook, because when the birds start flying, you’ll want to know what you’re looking at!
If a journey to Izembek isn't doable this year, don't worry — Alaska has plenty of other wildlife hotspots to choose from. For an easier, family-friendly bird-centric outing, check out the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge Visitor Center in Homer.
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