Classic cars. Cupcakes. Native American history. A 19th-century stagecoach route. An incredible Filipino BBQ food truck. Yes, please.
These are some highlights along the Leeds Stagecoach Route, a scenic drive in Alabama that winds through the Little Cahaba River watershed east of Birmingham.
The route runs northeast to southwest along State Route 119 with designated endpoints at US 280 in Shelby County on the southern end and Leeds on the northern end, hence the name. However, by the mid-1800s, this byway became part of a longer stagecoach route used for mail between Ashville and Montevallo.
With that in mind, let's start this journey in Odenville, which is 2 miles northeast of Leeds and south of Ashville. You may be eager to get moving, but you'll see why this is the perfect place to hold your horses – specifically, mustangs. Odenville is home to the Mustang Museum of America, which features more than 100 models representing every era of production of the classic Ford Mustang.
About 1.5 miles beyond the Mustang Museum as you take US 411 southwest, be on the lookout for a small, white building on your left.
Stop there for a treat at Klarissa's Cakery, an adorable, tiny bakery with a sweet success story. Its owner launched the business in her teens, operating in a "cupcake camper" until late 2022 when she opened a storefront.
After you visit, don't hop back in the car just yet. Instead, walk south about 300 feet to the intersection of Blair Farm Road. On the south side of the intersection, you'll see a sign that marks a horse watering trough that's over 125 years old. It's a notable reminder of the road's roots and an invitation to imagine how refreshing a stop it must have been for the horses traveling the old stagecoach route. Just think – they only got water in this spot, and you (hopefully) got a cupcake. What a time to be alive.
Your drive will loosely follow the Little Cahaba River as you proceed southwest, offering opportunities for pretty views along the way. About 10 miles south of the museum, you'll reach the interchange with Interstate 20. You'll continue on 411 into Leeds, which becomes Ashville Road/SR 119.
The Jonathan Bass House Museum transports visitors back to the time of its earliest construction in 1863. Bass was a lifelong community resident who fought in the Civil War and completed the home upon his return. The Leeds Historical Society converted the home into a museum of exhibits that interpret the community’s evolution and history.
Less than a half mile from the Bass House Museum, plan a stop at the beautiful Leeds Memorial Park, which the city and many civic clubs keep in great shape. To access the park, you'll turn left onto Helen Street. The park is situated by the Little Cahaba River, adding pretty views to its 1.5-mile walking trail and family-favorite playground. The park exists to honor all people of the area who have served in the US military and includes memorials to those who were killed or went missing in action.
After returning to the main route, look to the left within the next quarter of a mile as you head south. Just past the intersection of Cleveland Street are remnants of a grist mill – Fullers Mill – built in 1819.
Within two miles, you'll reach the Rowan Oaks Historic Home, another significant structure along the byway. Early settler Thomas Rowan built the home in 1846. It features pine floors, beautifully restored woodwork, and period furnishings. While only open by appointment, the home is available to lease for private events. The home has modern comforts like central heating and air and a full-service kitchen that accommodates these uses.
Hungry yet? If it's a Friday or Saturday, you're in luck. Less than a half-mile from Rowan Oaks is a weekends-only food truck with a solid five-star fan base. Ricarda's Filipino BBQ shares a space with a service station, and you won't miss the bright red truck. If you do, turn around.
Pile on the pork adobo or savor juicy skewers of chicken inasal. The spot has a few outdoor tables and seats to stop and stretch your legs, too.
Over the next five miles you'll continue to follow alongside the Little Cahaba River as it flows toward Lake Purdy.
Lake Purdy spans over 1,000 acres amid an additional 7,800 acres of protected wilderness and wildlife. Birmingham Water Works Board impounded the Little Cahaba River in 1923 to create the reservoir. Bass anglers call it a hidden paradise thanks in part to its limited access. You can fish from the banks or rent a boat.
If you're not into fishing, it's a peaceful place to stop and enjoy the view. At this point, you can continue south to the Meadowbrook area of Birmingham, or turn and return the way you came.
If you opt to continue south on the route to US 280, consider extending your stay and cruising a few miles northeast to Birmingham's Perimeter Park area. There you can book a stay at the highly-rated Doubletree by Hilton. You'll be in the heart of the Shops of the Colonnade retail area and within easy proximity to shopping at The Summit.
Have you traveled this scenic drive in Alabama or one of the state's other six state-designated byways? Let us know your experiences and favorites.
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